Sometimes a Great Notion

Hotpatterns Superfantastic Shirt

No, not the movie. It’s not out on DVD yet. With my new blouse I created using Hot Patterns Superfantastic Shirt, I found two super notions that made my task easier. In addition I will share sources I have found to complete a perfect collar and an encased yoke.

First, I want to talk about this pattern. I believe that Trudy from Hotpatterns uses the Wild Ginger engine to draft her patterns. This pattern fit me perfectly (I needed to shorten the sleeves as I do with all of my patterns) I also had to shorten the bust darts as in the wearable muslin they past the bust point. These are french darts which are oh so flattering.   The first shirt I made to be a wearable muslin from inexpensive fabric I got from Fabric.com  a few years ago. I’ve been sewing for thirty years plus, so I admit I’m rather cocky sometimes about my skills. When I do not use PatternMaster Boutique, I use one of the major pattern company’s  patterns and over the years have become spoiled with being spoon fed every step of the instructions, i.e. sew side seam, press seam open, etc.   I’m not putting such comprehensive instructions down; I learned how to sew with these instructions and  have nothing but admiration and respect for the people that take the time to write them.  Today though, we have such a plethora of resources in books, blogs and Youtube videos.  I also can’t tell you  how long ago I put in an enclosed yoke or neckband and did a sleeve placket, and I had to relearn these skills.

I love the collar tutorial on this blog.  This is Nancy Zieman‘s technique, but

described beautifully by Bunny.  Another technique I’ve learned from Nancy Zieman to sew perfect darts is to make a clip in each dart leg and just mark the point. Close the dart; take a few stitches leaving a very long tail. Then pull the thread tail to the point using the thread as a guide.  Both of these techniques are shown on a wonderful DVD from Nancy Zeiman called “Nancy’s 25 Favorite Sewing Techniques.”

Stitch Guides

Slips through the holes on the back of the Bernina Presser Foot

This is the kind (above) I used when I made the tote bag. It worked well and allows you to sets stitch lines 6 inches from the needle if desired.

The seam guide closer to the needle is magnetic and works well with most machines.

The plastic seam guide comes with the 830, and as you can see adjusts to the measurements you need on either side of the presser foot. Note it can only be used when the table is in place

Dot Young Seam Guide, available at Site Connection is an old style seam guide I used for years with my Singer sewing machine. In theory you can use it for curves.

With the #10 foot, you just have to move the needle as far from the fabric as you want and guide the fabric by the lip of the foot. This type of foot available for many machines.

Another option is the 1/4 inch foot. The Bernina 1/4 inch foot (with guide) lets you lift up the guide so you can line up to another stitching line.

Peter Lapin from the wonderful Male Pattern Boldness blog has a great video on topstitching using older machines

Another great article on topstitching is on Carolyn’s Blog called Diary of a Sewing Fanatic.

This is the wearable muslin made out of a cotton lawn from fabric.com that I got for 3.99 a yard a few years ago. The only pattern alteration I made was to shorten the dart and shorten the sleeves.

Here is a close-up of the collar/stand and button placket which is the basis of the soft tuck down the front. Very flattering blouse.

And now for my sad tale of woe….

As I was making the challis shirt, the front was poorly off-grain. I didn’t realize this till I put the ‘PERFECT COLLAR’ on and it was crooked compared to the placket. Soooo I have to start all over again with a new front piece..

To quote the  beleaguered New York Mets announcer today: Sometimes you’re the windshield and sometimes you’re the bug. SPLAT.

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