True Bias

bias skirt completed. Excuse plant distraction

Although I’ve been sewing for many years, I’ve just completed my first bias skirt.  A medium weight tightly woven cotton print is the fabric.  I did much research on this and found some basics. Most of the advice was to cut larger seam allowance, let the skirt hang at least 24 hours before sewing or hemming and use a straight of grain waistband with elastic rather then applying the elastic to a cut on casing. The latter just kind of happened when I drafted the skirt in Pattern Master Boutique 5. In PMB 5, I simply drafted an A-line skirt and placed the pattern on a bias fold.

Fabric folded diagonally and pattern placed on bias fold.

Cutting was easy. There were only three pieces and I used a rotary cutter. Next I finished three of the edges with a two stitch overedge on my serger.  I overedged the two sides and the hem. I then pinned the skirt together and let it hang on Beatrice for a day. I then stitched the side seams. For the waist, I stitched on the waistband. I cut one inch wide stitch – able elastic approximately four inches smaller then my waist. I butted the two ends together over a square of lightweight fabric and zig-zagged over them and cut the excess fabric off.  I divided the elastic into fourths and marked with pins.  I divided the skirt waistband by the side seams and center front and back into fourths. I matched the pins on the waistband  and serged the elastic to the waistband. I then just folded the waistband down and cover stitched encasing the elastic and end of the waistband. (You can also use a double needle if you don’t have a cover stitch on your serger)  Because the cotton was so tightly woven, I hand catch-stitched the hem after hanging for twenty-four hours.

Elastic stitched into the skirt with coverstitch

completed skirt

completed skirt

With a different blouse

With the skirt hanging around, I had time to test my new coverstitch bias binder feet. For me at least, the jury is still out. I did purchase these for use on knit necklines, but I haven’t tried it on knits. I cut some bias strips and attached it to a raw edge and the results are ‘iffy’.  It might be that I just need to practice more. What I do like about these feet is that written on them is the width to cut the strips and the finished width. The following site really explains the coverstitch and use of these feet well.  Stitches and Seams

The bias binder foot on. This one is called Collarette Coverstitch B. This only folds the bias strip on top as the bottom is covered already

This is what I'm going for. It looks like this on top. The upper line of stitching on the binding and the lower line on the body of the garment

I’ve practiced some more with this foot and it is certainly a challenge to get consistent stitching. At this point, I’m only stitching the knit binding. I haven’t yet been successful with the attachment. Suggestions are welcome.

Stitching 1 1/8 wide knit on the crosswise stretch. The stitches that would seem to be hanging off would go on the tee shirt neckline.

About kuby2u

I love sewing, machine embroidery, cooking, photography and MAC's. I love my iPhone. I have a beautiful chinese sharpei named Chole. I'm happily married to my best friend. I have a wonderful son named Bart who is a LCSW, that I'm very proud of. I am a Christian. I have a Nikon D300S and an Olympus 510 along with a few other point and shoot camera's. I love my Bernina 830 sewing machine.
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2 Responses to True Bias

  1. mattie says:

    Really nice skirt! I love the fabric, the colors in it are some of my very favorites. I have the original Evolve without the wave stitch and I love that machine, I also have the first of the Imagines and love that one too. I bought some of the binder feet for the Evolve when I first got it but truthfully have never tried them and can’t remember where I stashed them either. I do have the belt loop maker and that worked fantastic. I bought all the feet for the Imagine when I bought it back in 1999 and they all worked well too. For sergers you just can’t beat those Babylocks, I also had two Pfaff sergers that made me nuts with the threading and all the adjustments I had to do to use them, I still have one of them packed away somewhere here.

  2. marlis says:

    Love your new skirt.. It looks great. Great tips on working with bias fabrics. No tips on the feet though, can’t help you there. What is next on the project list? 😉 can’t wait to see. xo marlis

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