Although I’ve been sewing for many years, I’ve just completed my first bias skirt. A medium weight tightly woven cotton print is the fabric. I did much research on this and found some basics. Most of the advice was to cut larger seam allowance, let the skirt hang at least 24 hours before sewing or hemming and use a straight of grain waistband with elastic rather then applying the elastic to a cut on casing. The latter just kind of happened when I drafted the skirt in Pattern Master Boutique 5. In PMB 5, I simply drafted an A-line skirt and placed the pattern on a bias fold.
Cutting was easy. There were only three pieces and I used a rotary cutter. Next I finished three of the edges with a two stitch overedge on my serger. I overedged the two sides and the hem. I then pinned the skirt together and let it hang on Beatrice for a day. I then stitched the side seams. For the waist, I stitched on the waistband. I cut one inch wide stitch – able elastic approximately four inches smaller then my waist. I butted the two ends together over a square of lightweight fabric and zig-zagged over them and cut the excess fabric off. I divided the elastic into fourths and marked with pins. I divided the skirt waistband by the side seams and center front and back into fourths. I matched the pins on the waistband and serged the elastic to the waistband. I then just folded the waistband down and cover stitched encasing the elastic and end of the waistband. (You can also use a double needle if you don’t have a cover stitch on your serger) Because the cotton was so tightly woven, I hand catch-stitched the hem after hanging for twenty-four hours.
With the skirt hanging around, I had time to test my new coverstitch bias binder feet. For me at least, the jury is still out. I did purchase these for use on knit necklines, but I haven’t tried it on knits. I cut some bias strips and attached it to a raw edge and the results are ‘iffy’. It might be that I just need to practice more. What I do like about these feet is that written on them is the width to cut the strips and the finished width. The following site really explains the coverstitch and use of these feet well. Stitches and Seams
I’ve practiced some more with this foot and it is certainly a challenge to get consistent stitching. At this point, I’m only stitching the knit binding. I haven’t yet been successful with the attachment. Suggestions are welcome.